Location of your aquarium
So, you bought your very first fish tank. And you probably already decided where to place it. But keep in mind that a fish tank filled with water is much heavier than it seems. So please, place it on something strong and stable.
It is also advisable to keep your fish tank away from direct, or even indirect, sunlight. Long hours of sunlight will induce algae, something you do not want if you wish to keep your aquarium beautiful.
Any gravel?
Skip this part if you plan to have a simple bare-bottom fish tank. Personally, I feel that gravels make an aquarium looks so much nicer. Having gravels also helps hide your fishes’ wastes.
Before you start pouring your gravels into your fish tank, stop! Take a pail, pour your gravels into it instead. Start washing them over and over until the water is decently clear. This is important, as you don’t want your fishes to be swimming in chocolate milk.
Preparing your water
Water is the single most important element of an aquarium. It is important to prepare your water before adding any fishes, as most tap water contains chemicals like chlorine and chloramine, which are harmful to fishes. So be sure to get a bottle of water conditioner from your favourite pet shop that neutralizes both chlorine and chloramine.
If you have gravels, be very gentle when pouring water into your tank, so as not to stir up the gravels. A useful tip is to pour your water onto a floating plate or saucer, so as to divert the force of the falling water. Fill water to your preferred height, and add measured amount of your anti-chlorine-and-chloramine water conditioner.
Setting up your filter
Setup your filter according to your filter’s manual. Make sure that it is working properly as intended, as the filter is a very important part of an aquarium. Your filter provides water circulation, and also oxygenates the water, if your type of filter causes water surface disturbance. If your aquarium is heavily loaded with fishes, and your filter fails for even a few hours, it could be fatal.
What is cycling?
Cycling is the process where bacterias break down ammonia(NH3) into nitrite(NO2), and from nitrite to nitrate(NO3). Ammonia and nitrite are both very toxic to fishes, and nitrate being the least toxic of the three. Therefore this process is the most important for any aquarium.
The nitrosomonas species of bacteria starts forming when ammonia is present. They form all around our fish tank, the driftwoods, the substrate, and especially inside our filter. Slowly, they will form into a colony large enough to efficiently breakdown ammonia into nitrite. When nitrite in the water has reached a certain level, the Nitrobacter species of bacteria starts forming. Slowly, they will breakdown the nitrite into nitrate. And finally, nitrate in the water can be removed via the most common and cost-effective method, water changes.
In a nutshell: Ammonia > Nitrite > Nitrate
Introduction of ammonia
These are the various ways of introducing ammonia:
- Seeding. Transfer some gravel or filter sponge/wool/etc from an established fish tank into the new one.
- Fish wastes. Zebra danios are very hardy fishes that are commonly used for cycling.
- Market prawns. Yes, it will stink.
- Commercial products.
Personally, I feel that the seeding method would be the most reliable and yields the fastest results.
Fish method is slow, but adding more fishes does makes the process faster. Just that the fishes might not survive the intense ammonia poisoning. We don’t want fishes to die in our new fish tank. It is also not recommended to use feeder fishes for this task, as they often carry diseases.
Prawn method is easy, throw them in and wait. But be prepared for the smell.
Commercial products are not the most reliable. Most of us would wonder how much shelf life do these products have. After all, we are talking about live organisms here. But there are indeed cases where hobbyists introduce fishes without cycling, relying on commercial products to do its work. It all boils down to how much risk you are willing to take. Personally, I have a bottle of Nutrafin Cycle, which I bought when I upgraded my filter.
The wait
So you’ve introduced ammonia, turned on your filter, and is waiting for your fish tank to cycle. I would recommend at least three days of cycling before introducing your fishes. Longer, if the fishes you plan to keep are sensitive. Or if you have not decided on what fishes to keep, now is a good time to research on that.
Find on how big will the fishes grow up to. Most fishes are so tiny when young, but can grow up to huge sizes. This is important, as having no space to swim will stunt their growth, their colors will not show, and they get sick easier. So get suitable fishes, unless you have plans to upgrade to a larger fish tank.
Find out if the fishes are to be kept in brackish water or fresh water. Do not mix the two types of fishes. Find out also their aggressiveness, feeding habits, behaviors, and anything else you need to know to keep your fishes healthy and happy.
Acclimatizing your new fishes
Finally, it’s time for you to go out and buy your fishes. Get the pet shop people to help you select healthy ones. While at the shop, make sure you’ve already gotten everything you need. Things like food, aquarium salt(if keeping brackish water fishes), net, water pump, and a bottle of anti-chlorine-and-chloramine water conditioner.
Once you reached home, float the packet of your new babies in your tank water. This is to acclimatize your fishes to the new water temperature. Float for about 15 minutes, then open up the packet, and pour some of your tank water into it. This is to acclimatize your fishes to the new water parameters. Wait for another 15 minutes, or more, if your fishes are sensitive species. And finally, use a net to catch your fishes into your fish tank!
Observing your fishes
If your fish tank has decorative objects, most likely your new fishes will go into hiding. This is normal, and will last up to a few days. When they do show themselves, observe them. Take note of how their bodies look like, and how they behave, so you will know when something odd happens.
Feed very sparingly during this beginning stage. As the filtration and bacteria system is still new, do not want to pollute the water too much. I suggest feeding small amounts once a day starting from the second or third day. If your fishes refuse to eat, do not put in more food. Try feeding again the next day. This is normal and you do not need to worry, as the fishes most likely already eaten when in the pet shop, and they can survive for as long as a week without food.
Conclusion
Soon, your fishes will get used to their environment. They will start becoming more active. Their vibrant colors will start showing. And they may even recognize you whenever you come close to feed them. That is the reward of fish-keeping! But of course, you have to be a responsible owner. Performing the regular water changes, medicating them when they get sick, and feeding them quality food everyday. And I officially welcome you to the hobby!
About the Author
For more fishy articles by Leon Huang, visit Your Fish Tank’s Friend
Written By: Leon Huang
You do clean your house dont you? Well you have to clean your Goldfishs house too and its a lot simpler! Cleaning and maintaining a goldfish tank is a must because this breed is really dirty. Even a teenagers room would be better than a goldfish tank thats left alone for a week! The Goldfish are descendants of the scavenger Carp fish and that makes them scavengers too. They will eat a lot, which means that they will produce a lot of fish waste that will degrade the quality of the water. More than a complete overhaul of the tank, you will need to give frequent weekly cleanings.
How do you use a siphon to clean your goldfish tank?
You will need to use a siphon to clean your goldfish tank because it efficiently cleans up the muck, does not disturb your fish and is easy to use. Its essential to use during the partial water changes. A typical aquarium gravel vacuum would be a wide tube attached to a narrower siphon tube. By cleaning the gravel every week you would get rid of a lot of substances that could turn toxic for your fish over a period of time. Heres how you begin the siphoning process:
* Put a bucket on a low stool or even on the floor in front of the fish tank, and place the wide end of the gravel vacuum in the tank.
* Now gently suck at the other end and hold it over the bucket. Once you feel the water flowing into the tube let it flow into the bucket. Be careful not to swallow the water though- but even if you do, it isnt going to be harmful!
* Now that the siphon has started, use the wider end to suck out the dirt and debris out of the gravel and flow out of the tank into the bucket.
* Pass the vacuum end over all the gravel and keep doing so till you have removed 10 to 15% of the water.
* If gravel gets stuck in the vacuum, release the gravel by plugging the other end of the siphon tube with your finger or thumb.
* When you want to stop the siphon just raise both ends above the level of the tank
* To stop the siphon, simply raise either end of the siphon above the surface level of the fish tank.
There are gravel vacuum that can be attached to a faucet but this would mean that you be putting back tap water directly into the tank which might not be good for your goldfish if there is a marked temperature difference. Also you would be adding all the chemicals present in the tap water without allowing the chlorine to evaporate. The best option is to keep a container of fresh water overnight.
The Weekly 10-15%
Cleaning your tank is essential to your goldfishs well being. In fact, both your plants and your goldfish need fresh, clean and healthy water to survive. All you need to do is set aside a little time every week to do what is called a Partial Water Change or 10-15% Water Change.
This weekly routine will not only keep your aquarium look nice and clean, it will keep your goldfish healthy. Partial water changes are no sweat all you have to do is scrape the algae, vacuum the gravel and replace the water you remove with fresh water. Heres what you need to do:
* Remove the algae on the surface of the tank with an algae scraper before you siphon out the water.
* As the name suggests you need to remove 10 to 15% of the water from your aquarium.
* There is no need to remove your fish to a separate container.
* As you remove the water use the siphon to remove the messy deposits in the gravel.
* In case you have an under gravel filter, then you would have to clean the gravel during weekly water changes.
* Do not take out all the ornaments and decorations and scrub them clean because you might destroy some of the much-needed beneficial bacteria that act as natural biological filter.
* You can clean the filters during the weekly water change but do not change all the cartridges, sponges, carbon packets, etc., as this might remove all the good bacteria and harm your goldfish in the long run.
* Also remember to rinse any new filter media in cool running water before introducing it to the system.
* Once you have siphoned out 10-15% of the water and most of the dirt and the alga, its time to replace the amount of water you removed with fresh, dechlorinated tap water which has been left at room temperature over night, in container free of soap residue.
* Use a siphon to transfer the fresh water into the tank as this would be a gentle way to put the water back in and it wont disturb the plants and the gravel. You would also spill a lot less!
* Do make sure that the fresh water is of somewhat the same temperature as the water in the tank. You cannot just dunk in cold water because Goldfish are not tropical fish.
Do remember to leave enough space between the top of the water and the tank hood so that your goldfish get enough oxygen to breathe in.
What not to do:
* If you see that the level in your aquarium has gone down, do not simply add water to make it level again. This is harmful, as you are not getting rid of the impurities in the water. You are just adding water without removing the dirt and thus making the water harder and more difficult for the goldfish to live in. So dont add water to top off the tank, do a partial water change.
* Never add water directly from the tap. Please keep a separate container only for aquarium use and leave the water overnight so that the harmful chemicals and chlorine evaporate.
* Please do not skip weekly water changes because if you do not partially change the water, you are allowing the build up of waste products like Nitrate that are not removed by the filter, and contribute to the growth of algae.
About the Author
Dane Stanton – Goldfish-Secrets.com
Having 30 years experience in everything Goldfish, Dane Stanton has spent the past 18 months researching the most pressing questions on Goldfish. This information has been recorded in his book titled – “Goldfish Secrets Revealed” – which you can pick up by going to his website – http://www.goldfish-secrets.com
Written By: Dane Stanton
Starting a saltwater aquarium is a task that can be fun and rewarding, or devastating. It all depends on if you put it together well where it provides a good ecosystem for your saltwater fish to survive in.
When setting up a saltwater aquarium you need to make a decision regarding how large aquarium tank you are going to get. For a beginner, a larger tank may be better. The reason is the more means a chemically more stable aquarium. Many experienced aquarists suggest 55 gallons / 200L or larger for a beginner when it comes to saltwater aquariums.
You will also have to choice between Glass and Acrylic aquarium tanks when preparing Setting up a saltwater aquarium. Glass aquariums will stay clearer over the years, though they do not insulate the tank as well, and are more breakable. Acrylic may scratch, but is stronger and insulates better (may require a smaller heater). Glass aquariums are usually the cheaper choice.
You should begin by deciding on the location where you will be setting up a saltwater aquarium at in your home. This is important for whether your saltwater aquarium setup will be successful or not. You do not want a location where there is too much heat changes during the day, or a location where the aquarium is subjected to large amounts of sunlight. This will not provide an environment that is constant in temperature for your fish, and might lead to too much algae (due to direct sunlight and its ultraviolet rays). You should also make sure that you place the aquarium so that it isn’t in the way in your everyday life.
When setting up a saltwater aquarium you want to consider that the tank might not be easy to move once the aquarium is full. Saltwater weighs about 8.5lbs per gallon and to that weight you can add gravel decorations etc. So be sure that it’s where you really want it before you start Setting up your saltwater aquarium.
Make sure the aquarium tank, aquarium stand, and other above aquarium equipment fit in the space you have chosen. Leave a gap behind for access to clean behind the aquarium and maintain the aquarium equipment. Setting up a saltwater aquarium is after all only the beginning. You will have to care for the aquarium once it is up and running too.
It is best to clean the tank thoroughly before use. Do not use cleaners, solvents, and the like as they may leave residues that can harm your fish. Tiny amounts of Pure Bleach may be used, such as one capful for 10 gallons of water, and make sure to rinse it very well afterwards.
Now you will need to decide what sort of population you want in your saltwater aquarium before setting it up. This might be Fish Only, Fish with Live Rock, or maybe a full Reef System. Fish only might be the easiest alternative if this is your first saltwater aquarium. It might however be relatively easy to upgrade to a full reef system later if you do a good and well planed job while setting up your saltwater aquarium tank. Setting up a saltwater aquarium offers many options.
Choosing an aquarium filter.
There are more then one type of filtration needed in a saltwater aquarium. These are biological, mechanical, and chemical filtration.
Biological filtration removes ammonia, ammonium, nitrite, and nitrates (some) created by fish’s biological processes and other activity in the aquarium. The process involves conversion of ammonia/ammonium to harmful nitrite. Then the nitrite converts to harmless nitrate. Live Rock which can support bacteria and Protein Skimmers are among top biological filtration systems.
Chemical Filtration is another important aspect of Setting up saltwater aquarium. They will remove various chemicals that are dissolved in the water. Visually, these remove the discoloration of the water that might occur without filtration.
Mechanical Filtration is also important for removal of matter such as excess uneaten food, fish waste, and other debris that might land in the tank.
Mixing saltwater.
Follow the instructions with the salt mix that you have chosen. Also, only add freshwater after the water is made. The water evaporates, while the salt does not which means that the salinity of in the aquarium fluctuates. You should therefore use a hydrometer to keep track of gravity(salinity), and add salt to bring up the salinity when needed. Remember; do not add salt when replacing evaporated water.
The first thing you should do when you have setup your aquarium and filled it with water is cycling the water. Let the filtration system run a week or longer before adding fish and there after introduce a few hardy fish. Damsels are one good choice for beginners.
Add fish to the aquarium at the rate of maybe 2 a week at most and preferable in pairs. You should not add more than 1 fish per 10 gallons, and remember that the amount of water will not be the full size of the tank, as other things in the tank (including your fish) take up space that are not available to the fish. Introduce new fish to your aquarium very carefully to avoid causing the fish unnecessary stress.
Good luck
About the author:
Click the links to read more about marine aquarium fish like the ever popular clownfish
Written By: William Berg
No one likes living in a dirty, stuffy house. Thank goodness a little dirt is not hazardous to our health. The same cannot be said for our aquatic friends. Most fish and invertebrates are unable to adapt to changes in water chemistry that result from increased bacteria, waste, and chemicals. Proper filtration can preserve the overall health of the aquarium and maintain its beauty.
Three types of filtration exist on the market – biological, mechanical, and chemical. Varying experts will assert that you must utilize all three in your tank. For a marine aquarium with a reef environment, that may be good advice. There is no definitive answer on what combination is suitable for your aquatic environment. Educating yourself on the functions of all three will enable you to pick the filter(s) that will safeguard your fish and invertebrates’ natural habitat.
Biological Filtration Biological filters are a must for every aquarium. They stimulate the growth of nitrifying bacteria that breaks down harmful ammonia to less toxic chemicals such as nitrate. It sounds simple enough, but how this is accomplished is quite impressive. A widespread method of producing these beneficial bacteria is adding fish to the aquarium. The bacteria, which ride on the fish, drop off and spread throughout the tank and grow. This also leads to increased amounts of dangerous ammonia, so it is important to add fish gradually. It can take several months to establish this cyclical process.
Aquarist believed that they had an easier, quicker solution in under gravel filters and crushed coral. Along with the water, detritus and junk was pulled through the crushed coral, which clogged the filter bed. Some fish enthusiasts have gladly replaced these under gravel filters with biofilters such as canister filters, trickle filters, bio wheels, fluidized bed filters, or sponge filters. These devices incorporate other methods of filtration making them even more useful. Other aquarists opt for the natural route to biological filtration using a mixture of live sand and crushed coral as the tank’s substrate.
Mechanical Filtration Mechanical filters use a more direct approach to remove particulate matter before it decomposes and adds to the ammonia load. These filters are the most versatile since they can be used in most filtration devices. The key to their efficiency is regular cleaning. Otherwise, waste can accumulate and your effort is in vain. Aquarium owners must always be mindful of the flow rate of their device, which is automatically set to manufacturer’s standards. A reduced flow can lead to an unclean filter (or vice versa) and adversely affects the health of the entire aquarium.
There are a variety of mechanical filters on the market, each with its own advantages. The power filters’ low price, ease of use, and maintenance makes it the most popular of all mechanical filtration devices. These quiet devices can also be used for chemical and biological filtration.
Canister filters are equally as versatile. These large-capacity filters, which run on their own pumps, can be used for mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration. Many aquarists prefer the hang-on-tank canister filters to promote water quality, but there are a large variety of canisters styles available.
Wet/Dry filters, also known as trickle filters or bio-towers, are more suitable for fish-only tanks than reef systems. This is due to the biomaterial inside the filter’s wet/dry chamber that becomes dirty and results in a buildup of harmful nitrates.
Internal filters are a great option for smaller tanks. Their compact and simple design makes them easy to operate. As the name suggests, the filter runs within the aquarium and is powered by a small water pump, or air pump.
Protein skimming/foam fractionation is not mandatory, but it is a trusted method of maintaining water quality. Dissolved proteins linger to air bubbles and form protein foam. Protein skimming pumps the air bubbles through a small columnar removing the dissolved proteins from the tank.
Chemical Filtration Particles are not the only thing floating in your aquarium’s water. Copper, ammonia, and phosphates also threaten the stability of your tank’s environment. Chemical filtration utilizes chemically enhanced products to treat the water. Activated carbon is the leading medium used. Others such as calcium hydroxide, zeolite, and even peat moss work as well.
Protein skimming, Power, Canister, and Internal filters are some of the most common filtration devices used for chemical treatment. Of course these double for mechanical filtration devices as well. Trickle filters are a popular choice amongst saltwater aquarium owners. The water is first drawn from the tank. Then, it is siphoned through the mechanical, biological, chemical, and auxiliary filters. Finally, it placed back into the aquarium.
To target specific chemicals, look to Reactors. Water is drawn through a canister-type chamber where it meets the chemical media. For even more effective filtration, they can be run pressurized.
The methods of keeping your aquarium’s waters clean are numerous. Using biological filters as a base, there is a wealth of combinations that you can build upon to create a healthy environment for your pets.
About the author:
Copyright 2006 Reef Saltwateraquarium – http://www.reefsaltwateraquarium.com
Written By: Reef Saltwateraquarium
There are two areas of introducing new fish into an aquarium that you must be aware of: 1. Fish Quarantine
Fish quarantine is one big, singular factor that must be observed strictly before you can be sure that your new fish is of good health and not an apostle of doom for the other inmates. Most new fishkeepers don’t take consider this very important factor.
For the benefit of intending aquarists, quarantine in the fish world refers to the physical and chemical treatment of new fishes (either imported or caught from the wild) to rid them of disease and restlessness before introduction into a new environment,
A small quarantine tank (30x20x25cm) is advisable for any serious aquarist. The alternative is to be sure that your pet shop has a functional quarantine section to cater for bacterial, fungal and viral diseases.
This is a sure guarantee against fish deaths. The unfortunate thing with most shops in the country is the lack of space and inadequate expertise to build and administer the prophylaxis procedure on new fish, as the procedure is sure to last at least nigh days! To the average aqua-investor, this is an unnecessary tie down of capital and you know what that means.
Admittedly, the expense incurred on quarantine by way of chemical purchase e.g. copper sulphate, wescodyne, malachite green, teremycin etc) is high. This is more or less reflected on the final sales price of the fish, which is slightly higher in our shop. But, this would pay you off in the long run, as it is unlikely that you will complain of fish deaths any longer.
I am quite sure, some fish farmers reading this column would be more concerned about the application of this procedure to solve their farm problems especially those with hatcheries or those who stock with post fry and fingerlings.
2. Feeding New Fish
When you just introduce a new fish to aquarium tank it’s necessary to feed the fish. Though this will not be instant because no matter how carefully you add the fish to your aquarium tank they will look very unhappy for a while.
Thus it’s necessary that you turn the flights out, and leave them overnight to get used to their new home first before thinking of feeding them. Then feed fish with aquarium fish food with fish flakes the next day, this will make the fish feel at home.
If you already have an established tank, it is advisable to quarantine new fish before adding them to an existing populated, and the cheapest way to do this is to purchase a plastic tank which will need no gravel or plants.
This can be used solely for quarantine and as a hospital tank.
Leave the fish in this tank for about three days during which any disease harbored by the fish would be evident for which it can be treated using available chemicals from your dealer. The fish can then be introduced into the tank in the same way as before.
When you add new fish to an established community, there will probably be a certain amount of harassment of the new arrivals by the original fish. Try to divert their attention by giving them a good feed when the fish are introduced.
About the Author
For more great aquarium related articles and resources check out http://tropicalfish.aquariumspot.com
Written By: Nathan Miller
Most of our marine fishes come from the wild. It isn’t unusual for the fish to be carrying a worm infection in its intestinal track. It’s been estimated that up to 30% of fish in the wild have some kind of intestinal worm infection. This number can considerably increase as fish are kept in holding tanks along transfer points, where they can share diseases and infections.
In the wild, this isn’t much of an issue. The fish can find enough food for its own needs and the needs of the worms. The worms, of course, are taking nutrients away from the fish. But if the intake of nutrients is enough, the fish & the worms are happy. However, I, the aquarist, am not happy. I want worms out.
If the fishes are de-wormed (which is very easy to do) the aquarist doesn’t have to worry about the worms taking nutrients away from their fishes.
Unfortunately, it isn’t easy to always tell if a fish has these worms. The symptoms of a worm infestation match other intestinal disorders. Generally though, the symptoms and observations of fishes with intestinal worms include:
Strange faeces (stringy, solid lengths, colored wrong, worms in faeces, etc.)
Fish eats voraciously but doesn’t seem to gain weight
Fish eats but is losing weight, or seems to be wasting away
Fish eats but is losing coloration and clear marking boundaries
Fish eating habits have changed to picking at food or it stops eating
Obviously the above set of symptoms can apply to certain other conditions, however, the ‘strange faeces’ is the one symptom you’ll come to rely upon most.
You have to be a Super Pooper Snooper to ‘sniff out’ the problem.
I’d like to cover in this article the three most common problems which are indicated by the above symptoms. Peculiar faeces are usually a sign of an intestinal/internal problem.
There are three basic possibilities when it comes to an intestinal problem.
This reference outlines the three nicely:
http://www.petsforum.com/personal/tr…nfections.html
Garlic is not a remedy. It has been suspected of helping in one case of internal parasites. The fish was fed solid chunks of it. Garlic juice does nothing in this case. I can elaborate on this if you want or you can read a thread on that: Garlic
Knowing how long you’ve had this fish would help in the diagnosis, as well as whether or not you use a quarantine system to verify the fish was healthy before you put it into your display tank. Since I don’t know this information when I wrote this article, I have to assume either possibility and provide how to deal with each.
Whatever the intestinal problem, the fish needs the best water quality, the best diet AND supplements added to its diet. Remember, it’s eating for two or two thousand!
For diet and supplement help, check this out:
Feeding Marine Fish and Fish Nutrition
If the fish isn’t eating then the only way to get medication to the intestinal track is to put the fish in a quarantine tank and treat the water with chemicals that will kill the internal condition. The drug Praziquantel (a.k.a. Droncit) will treat intestinal worms, Maracyn Two for Saltwater fish will treat an internal bacterial infection and Metronizazole will treat dinoflagellate infections.
To be conservative: I recommend two ways forward:
1. If you’ve had your fish for several months or more: First check your source water for contaminants. Use only the best source water and make up a new batch of salt water. Now check that freshly made up water for quality/contaminants. If it passes, then adjust it for pH, temperature and salinity, mix some more, then do an 80% water change and see if the fish seems to ‘perk up’ (e.g., starts eating or eats more or swims around more in the open). If the fish definitely perks up then it maybe a combo of water conditions and bacteria. In this case, I’d treat the fish for an internal bacterial infection. Move fish to a hospital/quarantine tank and treat with Maracyn Two for Saltwater fishes. Begin with a double dose and continue double dosing what is recommended on the medicine insert. With proper nutrition and water quality, the fish may gain control and conquer the internal infection.
2. If you recently acquired the fish: Treat the fish for worms (using Praziquantel) first and if no improvement, treat for dinoflagellates (using a medication containing Metronizazole). You can use a medication that includes both these (see below).
If the fish was fat and eating properly and being fed a proper diet (see above reference), with vitamin and fat supplements, it can live without eating for several weeks, providing all other environmental and water quality conditions are as they should be and the fish isn’t diseased. Praziquantel is best administered orally so if your fish isn’t eating, try to get the fish eating.
De-worm all newly acquired fishes with Praziquantel right after acclimation. Acclimation suggestion: It Was Acclimation, I know. . .
Dose Praziquantel as instructed below. Wait 5 days and dose again.
This treatment is over!
Medications:
Maracyn Two for Saltwater fishes. Made by Mardel. Contains the antibiotic Minocycline with B complex vitamins (to stimulate appetite). Available at some local fish stores, Petco, and on line.
Praziquantel. Praziquantel may be hard to find. But it is available on-line along with other medications at: National Fish Pharmaceuticals, FISH DISEASE . . It is also available on-line from PondRX PondRX – Do you feel the need for speed? – Home. . Unfortunately, the quantity of Praziquantel you need to order as a minimum order may be more than you’ll need in the next few years. It is administered at 23mg per pound of fish, in their normal food.
There is a commercially prepared anti-parasitic pellet food available. It is made by Jungle. The active ingredients in this food are levamisole (a stimulant for the fish immune system), Metronizazole, and Praziquantel. This particular formula will kill a much broader spectrum of intestinal organisms. Also, the product Gel-Tek Ultra Cure PX can be used instead of Praziquantel. The aquarist is looking for a treatment that the fish will swallow (not a water treatment). For both of these products, just follow directions on the medication.
Alternative Meds (overseas). I try to be on the look-out for meds available outside North America. I’ve recently come across some that are suitable for de-worming. Those in the UK and Europe may find Fenbendazole or Piperazine more readily available. They are dosed at 250mg/100g of food, fed for 7 to 10 days. Medications and medications containing these will likely come with dosing instructions. Always follow label instructions.
Metronizazole. Also found in several products. (See above). Follow the directions that come with the medication.
BE THE SUPER POOPER SNOOPER. Watch your fishes’ faeces! (This is a hobby?)
This article may be used freely as long as this resource box, with intact hyperlinks, is included.
Lee Birch is the author of this article, originally posted here, used with permission by Chris Merriman
To Learn How To Obtain, Sustain & Maintain Your Aquatic Mini-World, visit LearnAboutAquariums.com
Eradication of encrusting algae could be done simply by periodically scraping the sides of the aquarium or scrubbing the rocks. For those with plastic plants and a completely white gravel bed, the situation could be more tasking as it would be necessary to bleach the rocks to remove all traces of algae.
However, if you do this, do make sure that you rinse the gravel thoroughly afterwards. Bleach is highly toxic, and even small amounts can have a drastic effect on the aquarium fish.
Since the primary cause of green algae is too much light. The fist step in the treatment schedule should be light reduction then partial water changes and an adequate stocking with natural aquarium plants. A final treatment with an algae remedy should ensure that the problem is eradicated and is at least kept at bay for some time.
One of the factors mentioned above is the use of natural aquatic plants as a means of algae control. This is really more effective than many people think.
For a start, luxuriant plant growth will filter out some of the light keeping algae in check. In addition plants absorb a large variety of chemicals from the water, thereby starving algae of some of their essential nutrients e.g. nitrates (not nitrites).
Surprising as though it may seem, an adequate plant stocking level is approximately 50 small plants per square root of available space.
The treatment I mentioned is the use of an algaecide. I must stress the word “use:” it is very different to “abuse”!
Yet despite this difference, I know that some people will still persist in pouring the chemical remedy into their aquarium and expect the problem to disappear overnight, even though they have done absolutely nothing to alter the conditions in the tank that brought about the problem in the first place.
The conditions I stated above have to be adhering to for any lasting effect to occur! Now that we know how to curb the menace of the green algae, in another article I shall discuss it’s ugly “sister” brown algae (the brown encrusting algae whose case is the reverse of green algae).
About the Author
For more great aquarium related articles and resources check out http://proteinskimmers.aquariumspot.com
Written By: Nathan Miller
